Differences

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--- projects:nardoragon_suit:head [2025/03/02 22:27] – equinn
+++ projects:nardoragon_suit:head [2025/09/10 14:21] (current) – [Ears] equinn
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 ==== The head consists of the following printed parts: ====
-  * Front shell (gas mask)
+  * Front shell (gas mask){{:projects:nardoragon_suit:frontshell.png?100|}}
-  * Back shell
+  * Back shell{{:projects:nardoragon_suit:backshell.png?100|}}
   * Backplate
   * Adapters for the "filters (x2)
@@ Line 36: / Line 36: @@
   * Thin black EVA foam for the bottom of the padding to hide the bright yellow padding foam
   * Velcro strips to hold the padding in, so the padding can be swapped out/cleaned
-  * The same kind of mesh typically used for fursuit eyes, used for the ear holes (the ones on the side for my actual ears and the ones in the suit ears)
+  * The same kind of mesh typically used for fursuit eyes, used for the ear holes (the ones on the side for my actual ears and the ones in the suit ears), painted black (you can use a sharpy for this or airbrushit, whatever works)
 ==== Headshell ====
@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 To reduce weight the headshell and all other components (except for the ears) were printed using LW-PLA (lightweight PLA). This pla foams up above a certain temperature, which reduces its density greatly. There is a tradeoff of course, because as the density reduces so does the strength. Although in my experience even at 50-60 % weight (compared to "solid" PLA) it's still pretty tough and flexible.
-My typical post processing sequence for PLA prints is as follows. **Keep in mind this is just what I do CURRENTLY, and this is an ever evolving process and I do not claim this to be the best orcorrect way to do it!**
+My typical post processing sequence for PLA prints is as follows. **Keep in mind this is just what I do CURRENTLY, and this is an ever evolving process and I do not claim this to be the "best" or "correct" way to do it!**
   - Remove brims, burrs, and strings
@@ Line 61: / Line 61: @@
   - Spray colour pass 2 and let it dry
   - Optional: Spray colour pass 3 and let it dry
-  - Optional: leave to dry
   - Spray varnish pass 1 and let it dry
   - Spray varnish pass 2 and let it dry
@@ Line 67: / Line 66: @@
 You may need to repeat one or more of these steps (especially during sanding) depending on the print, and how fine of a finish you'd like.
+Print settings for LW-PLA I used (on modified CR-10S with a microswiss direct drive extruder):
+  * Extrusion multiplier: 0.52
+  * Print temperature: 225 C
+  * Print speed: 50 mmm/s
+  * Retract distance: 0.5 mm
+  * Retract as few times and as little as possible, otherwise the hotend may clog!
+  * Wall loops: 3
+  * Infill: 10 % rectilinear
+  * 4 top and 4 bottom shells
+  * Layer height: 0.2 mm
 ==== Ears ====
@@ Line 75: / Line 86: @@
 This resulted in ears that are under 100 grams each, which made a huge difference in comfort.
+Printing LW-TPU can be a bit tricky as I learned. It has to be printed very slowly, and it sticks to the build plate extremely strongly, so it has to be removed carefully.
+Print settings (on direct drive CR-10S):
+  * Extrusion multiplier: 0.6
+  * Retract distance: 3 mm
+  * Retract speed: 35 mm/s
+  * Coast to end enabled, distance: 5 mm
+  * Layer height: 0.2 mm
+  * Wall loops: 2 (depends on the parts, the bottom part, up to the hole, has 3 perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle, 2 with 0.6 mm nozzle, but above that only 2 (this stays 2 for the 0.6 mm nozzle as well unfortunately)
+  * Print temperature: 250 C
+  * Bed temperature: 45 C
+  * Part cooling fan : 50 %
+  * Printing speed: 40 mm/s (with the 0.6 mm nozzle this is too fast, especially for vase mode, had to halve it to 20 mm/s)
+  * Reduction of print speed for short layer times was enabled (otherwised the ear tips would go melty), was set to 5 sec, with a minimum speed of 5 %